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Your skin is naturally slightly acidic, and this is its defense state.
> 💡 The Crucial Rule: Skin likes a \text{pH} in the range of 4.5–5.5.
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Many traditional soaps, and even some shampoos or shower gels, have a much higher \text{pH} (alkaline) and contain aggressive detergents. What happens when you use them?
* Dissolving Cement: Harsh detergents break down your natural lipid cement, which builds your protective barrier.
* Increased TEWL: Transepidermal water loss (\text{TEWL}) increases, leaving your skin dry and tight.
* Disrupted Microbiome: An irritated barrier and incorrect \text{pH} encourage the proliferation of "bad" bacteria.
* The Result? A perfect recipe for irritation, breakouts, and inflammation.
📝 Effective Cleansing Routine: Stop the Aggression!
Proper cleansing should be a two-step process (in the evening) or a single step (in the morning), but always gentle!
Evening Ritual (With Makeup / \text{SPF}):
* Oil Step (30–60 seconds): Makeup, long-lasting \text{SPF}, and sebum are oils, and oil dissolves oil. Apply an oil cleanser to dry skin, massage, emulsify (add water until it turns milky), and rinse. No scrubbing!
* Gel/Foam Step (30–60 seconds): Use a gentle syndet (synthetic detergent) with a \text{pH} \approx 5. Look for mild surfactants (amphoteric/non-ionic) and avoid "harsh" anionic detergents for daily use.
Evening Ritual (No Makeup / Light Day):
* A single gentle step is enough: a \text{pH} \approx 5 gel or foam. If your skin is very dry, you can use a rinse-off emulsifying oil cleanser alone.
Morning: Water or Cleanser?
This is not a dogma, but common sense:
| Just WATER is Enough | Choose GEL/FOAM |
|---|---|
| You had a thorough cleanse the night before. | You have oily/acne-prone skin. |
| You did not use occlusion (e.g., sleeping masks). | You slept using occlusion (heavy cream, mask). |
| Your skin is dry or sensitive. | You applied retinoids/acids the night before. |
| | You wake up sweaty or after a morning workout. |
> 📌 Remember: In the morning, cleansing should be clean, but not aggressive! The hydrolipid film is beneficial, but we don't want residues from the nighttime routine or secreted sebum remaining on the skin.
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🚫 Micellar Water and Common Mistakes
* Micellar Water: Can be used as the first step in makeup removal (pre-cleanse) or in emergencies while traveling. BUT ALWAYS RINSE IT OFF! Micelles are also surfactants – do not leave them on your skin overnight like a serum!
* Major Mistakes:
* Using shampoo, bar soap, or shower gel on your face.
* Hot water and aggressive rubbing with a towel or brushes.
* Leaving micellar water on without rinsing.
* Using three different active ingredients simultaneously (e.g., acids, retinol, and vitamin \text{C}) on already irritated skin.
🚑 \text{SOS} Plan After a Mistake (When Skin Stings/Is Irritated)
If you overdid the rubbing, active ingredients, or aggressive cleansing, immediately switch to rescue mode:
* 72 h Break: Spare your skin – pause all acids, retinoids, and strong serums.
* Super Gentle Cleansing: Wash briefly with lukewarm water, using your mildest gel.
* Occlusion: Apply a thin layer of occlusive/barrier cream (ceramide-based) at night to help rebuild lipids.
* \text{SPF}: Use \text{SPF} (preferably mineral) during the day if you know you'll be exposed to the sun. If you are staying inside and the sun is minimal, let your skin breathe.
* Consultation: If stinging, cracking, or inflammation worsens – consult a dermatologist.
🔑 The Key to Clear and Healthy Skin
The entire philosophy is based on respecting the barrier.
Low \text{pH} supports the skin's natural enzymatic processes, gentle surfactants are less likely to denature proteins and strip lipids, and brief contact with the product limits irritation and inflammatory breakouts.
It's simple, yet the most important thing you can do to enjoy healthy and clear skin.
Did this post explain why cleansing is the most crucial step? Would you like me to now prepare a post about how to rebuild a damaged hydrolipid barrier step-by-step?